March sprinkles in the happy orange of California poppies as the vines begin to awaken, known as bud break, and the annual circle of life starts another turn. Winter lays bare the genius of the vineyard workers, exposing complicated trellis systems and intricate manipulation of vines. In the fall, the acres of grape leaves turn a daring gold, the trees a tapestry of crimson and amber, and the air grows ripe with the tantalizing aroma of grapes going about their business. In summer, the grapevines wave their green leafy arms overhead and roses at the ends of the rows bloom in the many colors of wine - soft Chard yellow, delicate peachy blush and deep Cabernet. The grapevines have the run of the valley floor, 45,000 acres of sprawling vineyards stretching in orderly rows.Įach season is as striking as the last. The mountains flanking the Valley have a smattering of houses but retain their forest cover and jagged Palisades. Humans and nature have reached a rare détente in Napa Valley, both offering their best efforts to ennoble the other. Lying nestled between two forested mountain ranges, the valley remains largely undeveloped despite its close proximity to San Francisco.Īt only 30 miles long, the Napa Valley is one of the smallest wine-growing regions in the world, but its wineries, about 400 of them, churn out more than 9 million cases of wine annually. Graceful Napa Valley, known worldwide for its production of world class wines, should also be known for its sheer eye appeal. On that clear November day when I was aboard, the train chugged out of the station and meandered north at a civilized 18 mph. The soups and desserts (including a perfectly executed crème brûlée) are made in advance, but everything else gets cooked to order in the moving kitchen, a long narrow car that gives new meaning to the term "line cook." The kitchen runs along one side of the car, and the other is a hallway with windows, an unusual feature that allows passengers the run of the entire train and a chance to watch the action – a lot of it – as dishes are prepared for as many as 125 guests, all seated at the same time. The wine list, about 40 strong by the bottle and glass, features mostly Napa wines, many from the vineyards that unfold outside the train's windows. You just want to add to it."Īlong with the fresh ingredients and made-to-order dishes come the chef's wine-pairing recommendations. "You put your own stamp on something already so beautiful. "That's what Napa Valley means to me," he said. He gives the fresh goat cheese a light smoking with apple wood that comes from locals who call him up when they're trimming their trees.
"For me it was a product that was so special that I wanted to do something to it once it came into our house, our kitchen," he said. The goat cheese on that same salad comes from a small farmstead in the Valley where they grow their own grain. He gets them California-fresh, blanches them to take away some of the tannins and then candies them himself. Emoting about locally sourced ingredients and sustainably raised meats, he describes the walnuts on his baby lettuce salad. "But, we're really a fine dining restaurant that happens to be on wheels."Ĭhef MacDonald talks faster than a locomotive about his passion: food. "The stigma is that it's touristy," he said. And he does not take that competition lightly. "My biggest competition is the train," says Chef MacDonald. The wine train's appeal is so strong, it creates a bit of a problem for at least one person, executive chef Kelly MacDonald. And then, of course, there's that train whistle. The 100-year-old Pullman passenger cars sport mahogany paneling with plush seats that conjure the era of 1920s first-class rail travel.
My ride was a mobile railroad museum, a flashy burgundy-and-gold number running on tracks laid in 1864 and powered by locomotives built in Canada in the 1950s. These were the thoughts clickety-clacking around in my head as the Napa Valley Wine Train pulled out of the station on a lovely November day. Add a gourmet meal, a bottle of wine and a vintage train, and you've got the perfect travel day. In our hurry-up age of jet travel and road rage, sometimes an ambling ride through the countryside can be a balm for the soul. View Gallery: Trains offer an unforgettable dining experience
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